Papillon Pinot Noir (2004) Cherry Hill Winery, Oregon
Normally I go for reds with big, fat fruit like Zinfandels and Shiraz or a whole lot of structure like Cabs and Malbecs, but I must say I am a sucker for wine labels with cute animals. Give me a penguin or a puppy on the label and my decision is made. So it was that I bought the Papillon Pinot Noir from the 'last chance' discount rack even though the Pinot is not my favorite varietal. The funny looking little pooch did it for me.
The reason for my anti-Pinot sentiment is that I have often had inferior Pinot Noir. I have come to realize this and to try not to be varietally bigoted based on cheap bottles, particularly of a grape that is difficult to reign in. The whole Sideways frenzy also put me off the grape for awhile because the hype significantly hiked the cost of a bottle.
The Papillon was nicely paired with a grass-fed sirloin and Rochefort cheese mashed potatoes. Normally I would have gone with Alexander Valley Sin Zin for this meal, but I was not disappointed at all with the flavor marriage. A lot of red currents and cherries on the nose with just the faintest a trace whiff of star anise. On the palate, I was pleasantly surprised by the tannic structure, which is not something I have come to expect from Pinot Noir, but which really stood up to the flavorful foodsteaky goodness.
The linger was a slight licorice-vanilla.